This is Paris

Bouchra Jarrar doesn’t scream fashion, she simply whispers it. And, with quiet aplomb, she has dedicated her new Spring 2015 collection to La Parisienne.

Bouchra Jarrar in her signature look at her studio
Bouchra Jarrar in her signature look at her studio

Ever since French Carine Roitfeld took over from Brit Joan Juliet Buck as editor in chief of French Vogue, the style of the women of Paris has become a major focus of the magazine. Add the rise of street style and Roitfeld successor Emmanuelle Alt being another favorite of the photographers, la Parisienne has become under much scrutiny. So much so that even books are published on the topic now by ex-model Caroline de Maigret or collections are made by another ex-model Inès de La Fressange in cooperation with Uniqlo. And believe us, this stuff sells. But then, there is also the designer Bouchra Jarrar, who makes the ultimate wardrobe for the female citizens of 75000.

Animal prints are big in Paris
Animal prints are big in Paris

They have long legs, so Bouchra gives them the perfect pants. They like to be sexy, so short skirts are an offer. And since they all have active lifestyles juggling careers and children, Bouchra cleverly takes a sportswear influence to Haute Couture levels.

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Ever since she installed her petite maison in the central 1st arrondissement side street Mont-Thabor, her business has been on fire and she has become even more focused and driven. This designer exclusively develops her own fabrics and – surrounded by an entourage that includes fashion historian Olivier Saillard – she hits all the right codes.

Layering is always part of Jarrar’s work
Layering is always part of Jarrar’s work

Outstanding in her new collection were the fabric mixes of lace and patent leather in short skirts. Just perverse enough to recall the movie classic La Belle du Jour, but never too much to veer into full-frontal sex territory. Taking things up another notch, Bouchra came up with a minimalist black and white cube print, which she designed on her own for coats and jackets. Everything oozed chic and class. Mid-calf length skirts come with a big split up the leg and are combined with animal print mini bombers. Since Jarrar only shows Haute Couture on the runway, she still imbues her ready-to-wear line with fantastic cutting and construction like a multicolor leather patchwork dress which looked cool and must have caused considerable headaches for many pattern makers.

Conceptual leather patch work dress
Conceptual leather patch work dress

With a succession plan to be announced after Alexander Wang’s last show for Balenciaga, we like the sound very much of this obvious candidate Bouchra Jarrar. The lady from Cannes who has conquered Paris.