Bottega Veneta F/W 2016

Urban Jungle

There are few more professional designers and brands than Tomas Maier and Bottega Veneta, whose latest menswear show was a studied statement about nonchalant style.

Even if strictly tailored, there was an insouciant air throughout – summed up by the opening series fiendishly well cut. Peak shoulder suits, their earnestness lightened by open-neck Henley shirts, ribbon chokers and mini cashmere ponchos. And hats off to the great selection of fedoras – higher versions of the look made famous by The Sting.

“More urban, more street, and a much longer silhouette,” insisted the ever unshaven Tomas Maier, who also included a half dozen ladies looks, including the amazed-eye, pouting beauty that is Edie Campbell.

Striding out proud and polished in stupendous bonded lamb and brush wool Canadians or waxy patent leather donkey jackets the whole show had an authority and a faintly Sixties vibe. One sensed the ghosts of Helmut Berger in the plaid blousons, the sense of late night cruising in St. Germain.

The sexy element was the perfect counterbalance to the show’s elegance
The sexy element was the perfect counterbalance to the show’s elegance

A far punchier soundtrack helped – especially as BV always shows at the god-awful hour of 9.30AM Sunday morning, when most of us fashion hooligans would far prefer to be in bed. The event was precisely timed – exactly 12 minutes – the seats and catwalk impeccably color coordinated, the mood highly proficient.  All very grown-up, yet also very cool.

Lamb leather never looked better
Lamb leather never looked better

Not many man will have the gall to actually exit there house in Maier’s front-zip waxy leather jodhpur motorbike pants, but they will make for marvelous fodder in many editorial pages.

“I would never own a motorbike, but I can appreciate their beauty,” winked Maier, as a queue formed to compliment him.

Maier is the king of casual chic
Maier is the king of casual chic