The raw materials of fashion, and the craft with which a great designer can manipulate them to his vision was what Sunday’s Bottega Veneta men’s show was all about.
BV’s creative director Tomas Maier’s believes that brand new clothes are not a joy to wear. That was apparent throughout an impressive collection where all knits looked sun dried, the shorts lived-in and the mood hyper at ease.
Whether in faded jacquard or tinted twill or misty wools his selection of crew neck sweaters or soft cardigans was as good a lineup of knitwear we’ve seen this decade in Milan. For Maier, a hyper organized gent who lives in an exactly arranged environment, it was a remarkable statement of bohemian beachcomber insouciance.
Men have been wearing leggings and lounge pants at home for many years, while splayed before giant flat-screens, or surfing the web with laptops on their knees. But few designer have managed to create chic comfortable clothes for that masculine downtime. Maier did this weekend – with soft matador pants and long johns shaped like dhotis so cleverly cut one could wear them down to the local market, feet wrapped in his great new calf tap shoes. Printed linen shorts, soft cotton Henleys and bonded silk pull on pants all offered a new vernacular on easy living.
Staged in a show-space revamped with curvaceous dividing walls, inside Bottega Veneta’s headquarters, whose courtyard boasted a beautifully maintained market garden of flourishing peppers, zucchini and lavender it was a subtle take on weekend wear by a designer completely on top of his game.