Berluti F/W 2016
Tattoos and Jacquards
Tapping into tattoos, tough tailoring and twisting reptiles Alessandro Sartori presented his best runway show for the house of Berluti, enlivening a miserable and dank Friday evening in Paris.
His cutting and draping was first rate – inventing a new, double-layer jacket, as if wearing two garments in one. Cut with laser like gravitas, with the interior panel buttoned, the outer one open, a series of these new items looked fantastic. Few more so that the charcoal version worn by the designer, as he chatted backstage in the Decorative Arts Museum wing of the Louvre.
Alessandro pulled the same trick with some shockingly natty redingotes where his choice of faded and fuzzy plaids was flawless. He cut his pants short at the ankle and forgiving at the crotch pairing them with jaunty cooper gold shearling blazers and sleek lambskin dusters with burnished seams.
By switching stylists, Sartori sensibly toughened up his mood, ditching the saccharine St Germain dandy look of several recent shows. Best of all, he collaborated with American tattoo artist Scott Campbell, whose designs inspired twisting cobras embroidered on the back of neat suits and funky gent brogues. “I love applying Scott ideas not just to prints but also exploding them into macro graphics,” said Sartori pointing out a broken pattern town coat in “mosaic jacquard” made of an amazing assemblages of panels of cashmere, wool, mohair and alpaca.
Added to that was a fine series of trainers with rubber soles contrasting to the haute polish of their classic leather uppers and we had a memorable fashion moment from Sartori. Unquestionably the finest tailor among designers showing in the Paris menswear season.