German Moment: Gauchère and Lutz Huelle
Yesterday saw a rare German fashion moment during Paris Fashion Week. At Achtung Mode we are one hundred percent convinced that German fashion designers can only survive and endure when they expose themselves to the challenge of showing in Milan, London, New York or Paris. Competition with the best is necessary to make it and build a serious brand. Being a local hero is not enough. So it was nice to have two strong shows lined up yesterday late afternoon. First it was Marie-Christine Statz at Gauchère who showed a moment of clean tailored reflection and sophistication followed by Lutz Huelle who showed in the American church on Avenue Georges V one of his most dressed up and fancy collections in years. The moment is with those two.
Not really known or sold in Germany, Gauchère is a serious business and the collection is sold at Le Bon Marché in Paris or even Barneys in New York. Not bad. So Statz decided to hold the show in her new headquarter at 188 rue Rivoli on the third floor. It was a good inauguration for the space.
The German connection?
Statz teamed up with Purple magazine fashion director Sheila Single to style the collection and the two found common ground in enhancing the collections clear lines.
The best pieces?
In fact, the whole collection was a best of of Gauchère. It looks like Statz is growing more assured with every outing. Coats had big volumes and clear lines and came in beautiful hues of navy blue or at the end in pony skin. Dresses are flowing and the jackets had a clever leather strap coming over the shoulder for convenience and for a cool visual effect.
Lutz always loves a bit of glam and yesterday we were thinking how nice it would be if Swarovski once teamed up with him as he always throws in sparkling belts to make it fancy. But this time he went for day glamour with grey wool tailoring in stripes worn with heels with added a whole new level of sophistication chez Lutz.
It’s smart that Lutz continues to riff on his hybrid bombers and he manages to come up with new ideas every season. Staying away from the bomber coat he worked it much shorter this season added a new layer of fabric in the back to drop the pockets and give new shape. Also, the golden padding looked stunning.
What a wonderful place to show a collection! The American Church has also seen a Vetements show and it was nice to see the pioneer of the hybrid bomber show there as well.