Dries Van Noten F/W 2018
This Antwerp-based gent is not only a great designer but also a top showman. His budgets have nothing to do with the LVMH and Kering financed extravaganzas with exclusive soundtracks and elaborate show settings that have been rented, arranged and prepped weeks prior. No, Van Noten shows still have that underground Parisian fashion vibe that takes you back to the early 90’s of Jean Colonna and Helmut Lang. Van Noten likes garages, school courtyards and industrial locations or for this show a former sorting office of the French Post and Customs and Excise. Through minimal use of lighting, sharp choreography and excellent sound he manages to elevate his clothes to deliver fashion moments. I mean, why can’t anyone else think about his or her show finale a little bit more and try to do something different? Last night the shadows of the models at the end of a classic men’s wear show were haunting and made for the extra cool factor others try so hard for.
Where it started?
“I wanted a classic men’s show with Prince of Wales, Tartans and checks. All the English fabrics I love and then bring it to how we feel about them now” explained a slightly bearded Van Noten backstage. To give these fabrics an interesting spin, he deftly worked on the volumes, from maxi coats and jackets to leaner outerwear.
Our favorite looks?
Again without the biggest budget, Van Noten has an unerring eye for casting. He always mixes in lots of ethnic and black guys but the stand out was the cool long side burns with shaggy hair cut on the opening guy. It’s the look of the moment.