12 Stoffsammlung/Fashion’s Key Players And News From A–Z

Text: Godfrey Deeny, Markus Ebner, Lisa Feldmann, Alfons Kaiser, Eckhart Nickel, Nicole Urbschat

Illustrationen: Elisabeth Moch

18 Everybody Versace Now! Donatella Versace is the greatest living rock star designer. What other fashion figure gets their own skit on Saturday Night Live? The lady gives us the low-down on her H&M project, its New York launch and her thoughts on la famiglia Versace.

Fotografie: Gregor Hohenberg

Moderedaktion: Anett Steinbrecher 

Text: Eckhart Nickel

22 Nadelstich: Peter Paul Polte The resident savant of German fashion is Peter Paul Polte. Known to many as the John Fairchild of Germany, Polte edited the newspaper of record for the German fashion industry, Textilwirtschaft. In his latest column for Achtung’s Accessory issue, he muses on the defining accessory of our era and the balm that soothes all fashion houses’ bottom lines: the handbag.

Text: Peter Paul Polte

Fotografie: Isabelle Graeff

24 Made In Germany: Jürgen Sailer Fashion culture from Germany exists primarily thanks to talented individuals. For this issue, we introduce Jürgen Sailer, whose skills and taste have won him a uniquely long reign as the right hand man to a major global fashion player, Dries van Noten. This expat success story par excellence gives us the lowdown on a special career and what it’s like to be a Swabian in Antwerp.

Text: Eckhart Nickel

Fotografie: Alex Salinas

28 Blonder Techno Few things have a longer shelf life than German beauty. Raised far away from the scorching Mediterranean, die Fräuleins don’t loose their looks quickly – unlike a quite a few Southern sisters. A key reason we went on a Berlin Techno club excursion with the exceptional Nadja Auermann, one of the modeling world’s most defining faces. Nadja reminds us that supermodels live in a world of their own – defying age and gravity. Based on fashion’s current renegades like Gareth Pugh and Nicola Formicchetti for Mugler, we built a striking wardrobe for the icy looks of this Techno goddess. Nadja sure does not fade to grey.

Fotografie: Ralph Mecke

Moderedaktion: Markus Ebner mit Winnie Placzko

50 Minimalismus am Main This fall, Frankfurt became the center of the financial universe, as the Continent’s politicians battled to save the Euro. Frankfurt is historically a sleepy town when it comes to fashion; unless you count the style shenanigans of Techno pope Sven Väth. That said, this city’s Madison Avenue, Goethestraße, has always been a top address for major international designer brands. No surprise really, as Frankfurt’s own hillside is Taunus, Germany’s most millionaire rich region. Goethestraße also happens to house the flagship of René Storck who brings international fashion to Frankfurt, and Germany, with his two latest Paris runway outings.

We highlight his streamlined chic in front of the skyscraper canyons of Frankfurt – capturing them as intriguingly similar to Wall Street.

No wonder the locals call it Mainhattan.

Fotografie: Markus Pritzi

Porträt: Isabelle Graeff

Moderedaktion: Markus Ebner 

Text: Alfons Kaiser

64 Frauenzimmer: Sophie von Olfers In this column, we want to showcase strong and typically German women. Our quest to define the ideal of German beauty led us to shoot hands-on art curator Sophie von Olfers in her Frankfurt am Main apartment.

Fotografie: Isabelle Graeff

Redaktion: Gillian Wiechert

68 The Chosen Two The new leaders of current fashion’s ultimate trend – poetic chic – are two Romans: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli of Valentino. This is very much their moment. They will be the guest designers at Pitti Uomo in January 2012 in Florence; they have launched a traveling Red Valentino cruising pop-up store; and, after many years of red ink, Chiuri and Piccioli led Valentino from a $9 million dollar loss in the first half of 2010 into a $3.5 million dollar profit in the same period this year. Achtung spoke to the duo after their brilliant Spring 2012 RTW show and then took the pick of their Russophile Anna Karenina Haute Couture collection, shown in Paris in July. No better place to shoot the glorious looks than in the 19th century Russian colony Alexandrowka in Potsdam.

Fotografie: Gregor Hohenberg

Porträt: Ralp h Mecke

Moderedaktion: Markus Ebner mit Winnie Placzko

Text: Godfrey Deeny

82 Stilvorbild: Oda Jaune A few years ago, subversive portraitist Oda Jaune moved from Düsseldorf to Paris to pursue her career. An immediate success; taken on board by the prestigious Daniel Templon gallery; creator of two sold out French shows and ever present figure in all major exhibitions in the Francophile world. Apart from being an exceptional artist, Jaune is also one of Germany’s best looking women. And, she dresses the part. We styled her in the Chanel’s latest croisière collection; photographer Sabrina Theissen capturing her echoing beauty in Jaune’s St. Germain studio and home.

Fotografie: Sabrina Theissen

Moderedaktion: Katharina Baresel-Bofinger

Text: Eckhart Nickel

94 Achtung Schönheit: Balenciaga Our features director Eckhart Nickel dips his nose into each season’s scent novelties.

This time he explores fashion master Nicolas Ghesquire’s new scent for Balenciaga to see if he can extend his hype from clothing to

perfume as well.

Fotografie: Peter Langer

Redaktion: Winnie Placzko

Text: Eckhart Nickel

96 Henry & Jana It has taken Achtung a long time to do an accessories-focused shoot. Why? We feel that independent magazines have a responsibility to transport a free-minded editorial spirit. And it’s hard to deal with a subject like a handbag in a creative way other than putting it on a page with many other bags or by over-styling a model so she looks like a Christmas tree with bags and baubles. In our debut accessories accented issue, we hone in on how leather shapes this season’s great accessories, whether it is long sleeve gloves, tight leggings or ultra-woven handbags from German and Italian experts. As there is a dark seduction to leather clothes and accessories, we went to the Henry Miller Suite at Berlin’s Savoy Hotel to showcase our favorites.

Fotografie: Robert Brecko

Moderedakion: Winnie Placzko

106 Wertanlage: Alle Kleider einer Frau This column celebrates clothes and accessories that will stick around in one’s life for a long time. Call it memorably durable style. And yes, sometimes there can be a surprise. Neither clothing nor accessory, New York writer Leanne Shapton praises a book from renowned German artist Hans-Peter Feldmann.

Fotografie: Sabrina Theissen

Redaktion: Gillian Wiechert 

Text: Leanne Shapton

108 Leibgericht: Perret Schaad Everybody is talking about Berlin Fashion Week but few people are actually mentioning relevant fashion talent that was born here. For our popular Leibgericht section, in which a designer cooks or prepares a favorite dish for Achtung, we catch up with Berlin newcomers Perret Schaad who have taken on the serious burden of representing in creative Berlin fashion in the world. With just a few shows they have made themselves the go-to-designers in Berlin for minimalism with panache. For us they prepare a carrot ginger soup with prawns.

Fotografie: Achim Hatzius

Text: Gillian Wiechert

112 Einkaufszettel

114 Masthead